Tag Archives: lap cheung

Sheung Wan

Yesterday we tripped out to Sheung Wan at the western end of HK Island.  The district is most famous for hoi mei and lap mei (dried seafood and preserved meats) and traditional Chinese medicine ingredients (TCM).  This vibrant area is also undergoing extensive urban regeneration – read gentrification.  Traditional family-owned shops mingle with independant art galleries and craft workshops attracted by relatively low rents.

The high rent hipperati districts of Central, Wan Chai and Soho will be a stop or two away when the MTR extension to Kennedy Town at the far western end of the island will be completed.  It will be very interesting to see how this (and many other districts in HK) develops and is an issue l will be closely monitoring.  I think it’s not going to be good if Sharon Zukin is correct in her reading of the New York regeneration experience.  Anyway, l digress…

The smell of Des Voeux Road West is heady with the unmistakable stench/aroma (delete as appropriate) of dried seafood.  For nearly the whole length of this road, shop after shop is packed with almost everything you might want to eat.  Vegetarians look away now, here’s some pics:

Just another manic busy day.

Salted fish (mar yui type).

Shrimps of every size.

Scallops in every size possible. Later that evening, we had some queenie ones steamed in egg. Delicious!

Snake skin in a TCM.  Also good in juk (rice porridge) the propietor tells me. Thanks mate but l pass.

Some poor double-crucified lizards in a TCM herbalist. Seahorses in the bags behind.

Pufferfish. How do they manage to sun-dry it puffed up?

Lap cheung or Chinese preserved sausage.

What we primarily came out to buy.  The Chinese equivalent of European cured sausages such as chorizo, salami, etc.  The lighter coloured are pork [L], the darker Yun cheung [R] are made with pork liver.  All are yummy!

Fresh delivery of lap cheung.

Lap cheung hanging from every available bit of space. The smell in this shop was wonderful. Salted ducks hang to the right with cured pork belly strips in the foreground out of frame.

Fat choi (black moss) for the veggies.

Duck gizzards drying in the street.

Squid, cuttlefish and abalones.

So this is where nearly all the world's sharks are ending up.

Toronto has just become the third Canadian city to ban the sale, possession and consumption of shark fins (shark finning was banned in Canada in 1995, but the Federal New Democrats are pushing for a national ban).   No way it would happen here (Click here).  Some shops were arsey with me taking pics of their loot so l shot this one from the hip!

Do you feel hungry or revolted?